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Tired of the usual tourist-packed Italian cities? Let’s take a detour off the beaten path and discover the secret charms of Viterbo, a medieval gem just north of Rome. Nestled in the Lazio region, Viterbo was once the seat of the popes during the 13th century. It still boasts one of the best-preserved medieval centers in Italy, thermal springs that date back to the Etruscans, and stunning hill towns untouched by mass tourism. If you're craving a weekend trip that mixes history, food, slow living, and a dash of magic—this is the one.
Weekend Itinerary:
Where to Go and What to Do
Weekend Itinerary:
Where to Go and What to Do
Viterbo’s Medieval Heart
Viterbo’s Medieval Heart
Step into a real-life fairytale in San Pellegrino, Viterbo’s beautifully preserved medieval quarter. Cobblestone alleys, arched passageways, and stone houses with flower-filled balconies make it perfect for aimless wandering. Visit the Palazzo dei Papi, where popes once resided—its imposing Gothic architecture still stuns. Grab a coffee or spritz at a small piazza café, people-watch, and take in the town’s slow rhythms. Bonus: entrance fees are super affordable, and lines are practically nonexistent.
The Thermal Springs of Bagnaccio
The Thermal Springs of Bagnaccio
Want to soak like the Romans did? Drive 15 minutes out to the Terme di Bagnaccio, open-air hot springs nestled in the countryside. It’s a rustic, locals-only type of place—five pools with varying temps, surrounded by green fields and serenity. Bring a swimsuit, a towel, and €6 for entry. It’s especially magical in the morning mist or at golden hour. A must-do if you’re craving pure, simple bliss.
Civita di Bagnoregio (The Dying City)
Civita di Bagnoregio (The Dying City)
Just 40 minutes from Viterbo is the stunning hilltop town of Civita di Bagnoregio, dramatically perched atop a crumbling cliff. It’s connected to the modern world by a long pedestrian bridge—no cars, no noise, just dreamy vistas and timeless stone streets. Wander the quiet alleys, take dreamy photos, and sample homemade pasta at a local trattoria. Entrance to the town is €5, and trust me—it’s worth every cent.
Villa Lante in Bagnaia
Villa Lante in Bagnaia
Ready for garden envy? Head to Villa Lante, a Renaissance villa famous for its geometric gardens, fountains, and waterworks. It’s a 10-minute drive from Viterbo and feels like stepping into a painting. Walk under centuries-old trees, admire moss-covered sculptures, and enjoy a picnic with a view. Don’t forget to stop by Bagnaia’s tiny historic center—fewer tourists, more charm.
Tuscania
Tuscania
Not to be confused with Tuscany, Tuscania is a small hill town with massive Etruscan and Roman roots. The town is quiet but absolutely breathtaking—stone walls, churches from the 8th century, and sweeping countryside views. Don’t miss the Basilica di San Pietro, perched high on a hill with the aura of a Game of Thrones set. Come for the history, stay for the panoramic walks and gelato on the main street.
Local Culture, Food & Traditions
Local Culture, Food & Traditions
Eats: Don’t leave without trying acquacotta (a traditional peasant soup), fieno di Canepina pasta, and local hazelnut sweets. Head to Hostaria Lo Spito in Viterbo or Trattoria La Torre in Tuscania for an authentic taste of the region.
Traditions: Viterbo celebrates the Macchina di Santa Rosa every September—a 30-meter tower carried through the streets by 100 men. It’s intense, spiritual, and unforgettable.
Famous artists: The Renaissance painter Sebastiano del Piombo hailed from this area and was a peer of Michelangelo.
Markets: On Saturdays, check out the local farmer’s market in Viterbo for pecorino cheese, truffles, and handmade ceramics.
More Time?
More Time?
Hike around Lake Vico
Hike around Lake Vico
a volcanic lake with forest trails and hidden beaches
Visit Orvieto
Visit Orvieto
a dramatic Umbrian hill town just 1 hour away
Explore Bomarzo’s Monster Park
Explore Bomarzo’s Monster Park
a surreal garden filled with giant sculptures and mythical beasts
How To Get There
How To Get There
Viterbo is about 2 hours from Rome by regional train. You can also rent a car for more flexibility.
Where To Stay
Where To Stay
Practicalities
Practicalities
Getting around: A car is helpful but not essential—local buses connect most towns, or you can take taxis.
Best time to visit: Spring and autumn offer great weather, fewer tourists, and stunning landscapes.
Events: Time your visit with the Tuscia Film Fest in July or CioccolandoVi, Viterbo’s chocolate festival in October.
Good to know: Most shops close midday for siesta. Pack comfy walking shoes—those medieval cobblestones are no joke!
Ready to uncover a secret side of Italy?
Ready to uncover a secret side of Italy?
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